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              <text>“Lough Derg is a lonely sheet of water, extending from north to south, about six miles in length. Its greatest width from Portcreevy to the River Derg is fully four miles. It is thirteen miles in circuit, and covers an area of 2,140 statute acres. It is surrounded by a chain of mountains, some of which rise to a considerable elevation above the level of the lake. The Rev. Caesar Otway, in his Sketches in Donegal and other writers after him, from whom we should expect a more impartial description, if not so graphic, say that there is no grandeur in the scenery of Lough Derg, no variety in the outline, the mountains without elevation, neither tree nor green spot to relieve this sombre scenery. A more unfair or distorted picture the greatest enemy of the place could hardly give. Here, indeed, you have all the charms of Highland scenery, and much in addition. The extensive sheet of water, with rocky shores and numerous islands, is all that can be admired. In the background the mountains are of considerable and varying elevation. &#13;
&#13;
And though heath is here the prevailing robe of nature, yet occasional patches of trees and bushes, with many a sunny slope and green sward and wooded island, relieve the scenery of its stem and wild aspect. But above and beyond all, the traditions and associations of the place impart to it an attraction and charm which no beauty of scenery could supply. &#13;
&#13;
The lake is about 450 feet above the level of the sea ; while the highest surrounding mountains are Crockinnagoe, to the south-east of the lake, 1,194 feet ; Ardmore and Ougtadreen towards the north, 1,086 and 1,071 feet high respectively ; the mountains to the south and west not reaching an elevation of 1,000 feet. &#13;
&#13;
The chain of hills towards the south of the lake forms the watershed between northern and southern Ulster, The streams flowing south of this chain of hills meet the Termon river at Pettigoe, thence flowing into Lough &#13;
Erne ; while the streams flowing northward empty into Lough Derg, and thence into the sea at Lough Foyle. &#13;
&#13;
‘The basin of the lake is a huge quarry of the metamorphic rock, known as mike slate, or schist, upheaved in ages azoic by some fiery agent, so that the stratifaction is now almost perpendicular to the surface. It crops up all round the shore, and through the lake into numerous rocky islets and hidden reefs, whose projecting points are sharp as iron spikes, and render the navigation of the lake a matter of great caution.’* &#13;
&#13;
* From an article in the Irish Monthly, January Number, 1878.” </text>
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                <text>A description of Lough Derg and its topography</text>
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                <text>Daniel O’Connor, Lough Derg and Its Pilgrimages: With Map and Illustrations, pp. 23-4</text>
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                <text>J. Dollard, Dublin</text>
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              <text>“Lough Derg consists of two large sheets of water, which may be designated the upper and lower lakes. The upper lake is connected with the lower by means of three channels formed by Saints' Island and an islet lying north-east of it, called by that name of bad omen, ‘The Wildgoose Lodge.’ The principal streams flowing into the lake are called the rivers Fluchlynn and Barderg, which fall into Lough Derg at its north-western extremity. The outlet is called the River Derg, which issues from the lake at the north-eastern shore, and pursues its winding way till it mingles with the ocean at Lough Foyle. &#13;
&#13;
Lough Derg is bespangled with numerous and pretty islands, some crowned with stunted trees, some bared to the mountain breezes. The principal of these islands are Inishgoosk, alias Bilberry Island; Saints' Island, Station Island, Prior's Island, Allingham's Island, Ash Islands, Boat Islands, near the quay; Stormy Islands, Kelly's Isles, Goat Islands, near the River Fluchlynn; Derg More Island. Derg Beg Island, Trough Island and Bull's Island. Besides these, there are a good many other islets with no particular designation; and which, with few exceptions, are mere groups of barren rocks, where cranes, cormorants and sea-gulls nestle, imparting by their wild and plaintive screams a lonely and romantic charm to this island &#13;
hermitage. In the above enumeration Saints' Island seems to have been sometimes called St. Fintan's Island, and very often St. Dabheoc's Island. Inishgoosk would appear to be the most ancient name at present attached to any of these islands ; and it may be taken to mean the island of the cove, or creek, on account of its formation at its western extremity.”</text>
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                <text>The archipelago of the lake</text>
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              <text>"To the west of St. Brigid's Chair, and about two furlongs from the shore of the lake, but somewhat further from the chair, is situated on the very summit of a mountain a carn-shaped eminence, on the summit of which is St. Dabheoc's Seat, which has been already described in this work. Writing on Templecarn churchyard we have already seen that the ancient roadway to Lough Derg passed by this old churchyard. And so it did. This ancient road, called by O'Donovan a via strata is given on the Ordnance Survey Map of the place. At the present day it is very difficult to trace the course of this road, owing to the fact that it has been disused for at least between two or three hundred years ; during this time heath and bog having accumulated over it where it led through the mountains, and, where it wound its course along the western shore of the lake, the waves having more effectively destroyed almost every trace of it. Traces of this roadway may yet be descried over the summit of Portneillinwore hill (which is convenient to Saints' Island), also in a few places along the shore of the lake, particularly at Portcreevy bay, where it quitted the lake and led on through a mountain valley towards Templecarn and Pettigoe. I have been told that at certain parts of this roadway, where the overlying bog has been cutaway, large stepping-stones, arranged in regular order, have been brought to light, which leaves us to conjecture that these were hollow parts of the roads that may have been partly flooded. &#13;
&#13;
I have also learned that where this roadway led through the tortuous defiles of the mountains between Pettigoe and Portcreevy, the pedestal of an ancient way-side cross may yet be seen ; and that the ground immediately surrounding this pedestal is closely paved with stones which are worn smooth; the supposition being that the pilgrims here knelt and offered up a votive prayer either on approaching or quitting the island." (pp. 58-9)</text>
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              <text>"…The story is told that in ancient times Lough Derg abounded in salmon and salmon-trout, just the same as its next neighbour, Lough Erne. The fishful lake gave an unfailing supply to the frugal table of the good monks, and little were the exertions needed in having always at hand a plentiful supply of this delicious and highly-prized fish. On a certain occasion the monks were expecting St. Patrick on his visitation, and had been out fishing all day, in order to have some salmon for the saint's repast However, they failed in catching any, and were sorely perplexed to find their hospitality thus put to so cruel a test ; which, when the saint had heard, he foretold that salmon would no more inhabit the waters of Lough Derg. And, as if to corroborate the truth of the foregoing incident, the legend goes on to say that about-sixty years ago a gentleman of the sceptical school, having heard the story as already narrated, put himself to great extremes in order to falsify the saint's prediction. He had salmon conveyed from a distance, carefully marked and deposited in the lake ; when lo! the very next morning the salmon were found in a net, which was placed in the River Derg to prevent their escape. &#13;
&#13;
Little over forty years ago Dr. O'Donovan related the self-same legend ; and, if it be only to show how much these legends are altered and exaggerated, even in a short period of time, I shall give his version of it. He says: ‘No salmon come into the lake, though they come up to the very throat of the river. Two fishermen (who had a weir near the source of the Derg) cast two live salmon into the lake not many years ago, to see if they'd remain there ; and in order to know them they cut off a part of their fins and tails, but, on their return, they found the same salmon caught in their cochall, or net. This is attributed to the curse of St. Patrick.’ &#13;
&#13;
As a matter of fact, salmon cannot be found in Lough Derg. The lake, however, abounds in trout, and affords excellent fishing. In this respect perhaps no other lake in Ireland can compete with it During the summer and autumn a day seldom passes without witnessing a number of arrivals of those bent on this fine Waltonian sport ; and the followers of the angle are generally rewarded with a numerous ‘take,’ Trout weighing six or ^ight pounds are occasionally hauled in ; but the class most commonly caught do not exceed a pound in weight When a gentle ‘fresh’ is blowing, no more contemplative or enticing pastime could be desired than playing a well-trimmed ‘cast’ off the shoals and reefs, which are so numerous throughout the lake. And we can well imagine how the monks of Lough Derg in the olden time, albeit their prayerful and penitential lives, enjoyed ‘to their hearts' content’ this delightful recreation, as they sailed over its waters in their skin-covered currachs. &#13;
&#13;
Eels, also, are to be found in Lough Derg. Near the mouth of the River Derg remains of an eel-weir may be noticed. &#13;
&#13;
Of late years pike has found its way into the lake, some large fish of this class having been caught weighing over thirty pounds. These ‘fresh-water sharks’ up to this have made sad havoc on the trout of the lake, but it is satisfactory to find that large numbers of them, during the spawning season each year, are netted in the streams flowing into the lake, and in this way, it is hoped, they will be diminished. Through the surrounding mountains, foxes have been a similar source of destruction to hares and heathfowl ; their number, however, is very much reduced, as each year beyond a score of them are caught in traps."</text>
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                <text>Interrogating the curse of St. Patrick</text>
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                <text>"…The story is told that in ancient times Lough Derg abounded in salmon and salmon-trout, just the same as its next neighbour, Lough Erne..."</text>
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                <text>Daniel O’Connor, Lough Derg and Its Pilgrimages: With Map and Illustrations, pp 72-4</text>
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                <text>J. Dollard, Dublin</text>
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              <text>"On the northern shore of the lake, near where the River Derg debouches, may be seen a beautiful white strand. Smoothly-rounded pebbles, small shells and Crustacea, such as may be seen on the sea-shore, are here to be met with. That many of the lakes and rivers of Ireland contain pearls, is beyond question ; of this the Rivers Bann and Strule are notable instances. That Lough Derg also produces pearls, has been lately ascertained. In the summer of 1874, a pearl-fisher came to the lake on pilgrimage. He was an Italian, and, like his countrymen, possessed the gift of music in a high degree. It is said of him at Lough Derg, that in his journey through these mountains he wakened up. many sweet echoes by his music. Having reached the lake, he made a search for pearls along the shore ; and was successful in collecting some of these rare gems, which, being small and of rather inferior quality, were worth, as he said, but a few shillings each."</text>
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              <text>"Taking into account what angry storms sometimes sweep over the lake, lashing its waves into great fury, it is a merciful dispensation of Providence that more accidents have not occurred here ; and this more especially when we consider not only the proximity of the Atlantic, which is but five or six miles west of it, as likewise the high elevation of the lake itself above the level of the sea, but also the frail nature of the barks, which in days gone by used to ply over its waters. Whilst the religious establishment stood on Saints' Island, there is no tradition of any boat accident having occurred, though the barks then in use were currachs, or canoe-shaped boats formed out of a hollowed tree. &#13;
&#13;
Many years ago, it is handed down, two priests went out for a sail on the lake, in a boat of the latter description ; and when but a short distance south of Station Island, where there is a round rock almost hidden under water (since called ‘The Priests' Rock’), the boat capsized, and its occupants were drowned. This, they say, was the first boat accident on Lough Derg. &#13;
&#13;
A second boat was lost here, between Saints' Island and the River Fluchlynn, about forty years. ago. The boatman was Doherty, from Augh-Keen, who, in company with two or three others, were returning home from Kelly's Islands in the month of March, when the boat, which was small and unsafe, capsized a little from land, and all met with a watery grave ; not even Doherty, who was a good swimmer, being able to escape. This sad accident inspired the muse of a local bard, who commemorated the event in a mournful lay, still sung in the locality." (pp. 154-55)</text>
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              <text>"But the most lamentable catastrophe of all happened here in 1795 — a catastrophe which for many years cast a gloom over the place, and the recital of which, even yet, fails not to evoke from the pious pilgrims many a tear and prayer for those who met with such an untimely end. Sunday, the 12th of July, 1795, is a day long to be remembered in connection with Lough Derg. On that day, which set in fresh and breezy, but by no means very stormy, there was the usual bustle and hurry about the ‘cabin,’ or ferryhouse, from an early hour of the morning, amongst pilgrims and the neighbouring inhabitants, who were anxious to hear Mass on the island. A few boats had already taken full cargoes to and fro, when the dread hour of eleven o'clock arrived. Johnston, the ferryman, had already allotted place for ninety-three passengers, all told, most of whom were pilgrims. It appears that some of the passengers took exception to the boat, as being old and unseaworthy ; but their fears were made light of. A very fortunate escape is related of a young man, a pilgrim, who had actually taken his seat in the boat, when he was summoned back by his father, who had dreamt the previous night of some terrible fate about to befall his son, followed him to the lake, and thus saved him from certain death. &#13;
&#13;
At about the hour of eleven o'clock MacTeague, the principal boatman (who is said to have been somewhat under the influence of drink at the time), pushed off from shore, and all went well till they came alongside Prior’s &#13;
Island. At this time it was observed that the boat had sprung a leak, and was fast taking in water. The boatmen, however, took no heed of this, thinking they could reach Station Island without any difficulty. As they had reached about midway between Prior's Island and Station Island, the water was now fast gaining on the boat, which alarmed the passengers, and rendered them quite restive. In this confusion and dismay the boat capsized, and all went down in about ten feet of water. It is said that at this time they were so convenient to Station Island that nine or ten good strokes of the oars would have easily taken them to land. Station Island itself at the time was crowded with spectators, who were so thunderstruck by the accident that they had not the presence of mind to push off to the rescue, though a boat or two were within reach at the island. If this had been done, there is no doubt whatever but that very many of the victims might have been saved. It is consoling to record that one of the priests then on the island waded out some distance into the water, gave conditional absolution to those drowning, and repeated aloud certain prayers for the occasion. All the priests then on the island offered up Mass for the souls of the deceased ; and the Prior (Father. Murray) is said to have declared, in a funeral oration on the occasion, that had the accident happened them when leaving the island, there would 'be &#13;
room for more consolation indeed’. &#13;
&#13;
A few moments after the capsizing of the boat, a large mass of human beings, having grasped each other with the tenacity of death at the bottom of the lake, came to the surface, where they remained struggling for a little, when they sank to rise no more. Out of the ninety-three passengers but three escaped — one of them a man named Mulharty ; the others were a man and his mother-in-law from the County Monaghan. The boatmen were also &#13;
lost, as well as some of the people of the neighbourhood, who were going to hear Mass on the island. &#13;
&#13;
At the time the accident occurred it is said that Johnston, the ferryman, was giving tickets at the ferry-house to a batch of fresh arrivals ; he is reported to have made light of the matter, and to have said that it would by no means prevent the station from proceeding as usual. &#13;
&#13;
All the bodies of those drowned were recovered from their watery grave. Many of them were conveyed home by their sorrowing friends to the family burial-places. &#13;
About twenty or more of them were buried coffinless on the topmost part of Prior's Island, earth having been carried up and heaped over their grave ; and here a dense cluster of firs may be observed waving their sombre heads over their lonely grave. Others of them, again, were buried in Templecarn churchyard. The sight of the dead bodies, as they were conveyed on horseback over the rugged mountain, was most heartrending ; and those who witnessed the sad ordeal (and there are some of them still alive in the vicinity of Lough Derg) could never after refer to the subject without shuddering at the recollection of it. &#13;
&#13;
In connection with this sad accident a remarkable instance — if instances were wanting — is handed down of the affection and veneration of the Irish for their departed relatives. It is said how a young girl, the only child of her widowed mother, happened to be in the ill-fated boat, was drowned, and her body was buried in Templecarn graveyard. The following summer her aged parent came nearly one hundred miles to perform the ‘station’ for &#13;
her, and brought with her a monument, which she had erected over her daughter's grave in Templecarn. This monument, or gravestone, is, I understand, still pointed out to the visitor." (pp. 155-58)</text>
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              <text>“…[T]here were times, some of which are fresh in my memory, when the pilgrims' boat ran considerable risk from the waves, and when the skill and energy of such experienced boatmen as Pat M'Kane, of Seeavoc, were taxed to the utmost in making headway against the triple waves, which are, I believe, peculiar to this lake. There were days also, but very few, when, owing to the storm, the work of ferrying the pilgrims had to be suspended, and when the pilgrims approaching the lake had to find shelter as best, they might in the ‘cabin’ by the shore. I cannot help thinking that, with no very great expenditure, a small steamboat might be provided for the accommodation of this pilgrimage, which would thus render the work of transit not only more expeditious, but also quite secure in every state of the weather. If this were an English or a Continental lake, instead of an Irish one, can we doubt but that its waters would be traversed by yacht and steamer, and that hotels and villas would look down from the surrounding heights on its delightful expanse of water?”&#13;
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              <text>"There are two different opinions to account for the meaning of the denomination, Lough Derg. The first is founded on a legend, which goes on to say that a frightful serpent inhabited this locality, and spread terror and destruction far and wide ; that St. Patrick, being come into the district, put the serpent to death ; that the waters of the lake were dyed of a reddish colour by its blood ; and thus the name of the lake, which was hitherto called fionn, fair or clear, came to be called dearg, which signifies red. This legend, though in substance the same, is differently told by O'Donnellan, in the notes to his edition of the Four Masters; by Dr. O'Donovan, in his Donegal Letters preserved in the Royal Irish Academy ; and by Mr. Wakeman, in a short notice and sketch of Lough Derg, published in the Pictorial World, August 28th, 1875. &#13;
&#13;
This derivation of the name is not admitted by O'Donovan, who pronounces himself quite incredulous as to these legends and local traditions. He says : ‘I am quite satisfied the name of the lake is not Loch-Dearg i.e. Red Lough, but Loch-Deirc which means the Lough of the Cave.’ This opinion is greatly sustained from the way in which it is found written in early notices of it. It is called Loch Gere and Logh Gerg, and the district in which it lay was called Glinn Deirg. This construction, also, is that adopted by the Rev. John Francis Shearman of Howth, in his Loca Fatriciana. &#13;
&#13;
That the waters of Lough Derg bear a reddish tinge to this very day is beyond all doubt, which, if it be not attributable to the legend aforesaid, is easily accounted for by reason of its waters flowing over a boggy or heathy surface. When agitated by a storm the water of the lake becomes very muddy ; but when the lake becomes calm again, the water is clear, and very palatable. The colour of the water, as also its agreeable taste when taken in a warm state, gave rise to its receiving by a very appropriate fiction, the name of ‘wine.’ Formerly this ‘wine’ was the only beverage taken by the pilgrims while they remained 'on station.’ Till recently the large copper, in which this ‘wine’ was boiled, lay rusting in a comer of the island, the modern innovation of boarding-houses and tea-kettles having discarded its occupation. Being such a useful relic to the past, it has been dignified with being marked on the Ordnance Survey Map of the place ; and hence, though there is now no trace of it to be seen, its memory is not destined soon to perish."</text>
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              <text>"Count Raymond, tortured in conscience for his crime, proceeded on pilgrimage to Lough Derg, in order to appease the wrath of heaven. The story graphically proceeds : — 'It was a beautiful evening in the autumn of 1397, and the flood of rich yellow light from the setting sun bathed the wooded shores of Lough Derg, tipping with gold the waves on its surface. At this time the naked hills, which now surround the lake, were covered with majestic woods of oak and beech,* and fringed with a thick copse of brushwood to the water's edge. &#13;
&#13;
'The little island on which was situated St. Patrick's Purgatory, lay about a mile from the shore, resembling some dark spot in the midst of flowing silver.&#13;
&#13;
* In a visit which the writer paid to Lough Derg, on the 4th September, 1877, he observed, on a portion of the mountain in the possession of a family named Gallagher, the stems and wide-spreading roots of two enormous fir trees, from above which the peaty surface had been cut. This is evidence that at a remote period, when our climate was much more temperate, large trees grew among these mountains, which are now so bare and barren."</text>
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