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              <text>"On the northern shore of the lake, near where the River Derg debouches, may be seen a beautiful white strand. Smoothly-rounded pebbles, small shells and Crustacea, such as may be seen on the sea-shore, are here to be met with. That many of the lakes and rivers of Ireland contain pearls, is beyond question ; of this the Rivers Bann and Strule are notable instances. That Lough Derg also produces pearls, has been lately ascertained. In the summer of 1874, a pearl-fisher came to the lake on pilgrimage. He was an Italian, and, like his countrymen, possessed the gift of music in a high degree. It is said of him at Lough Derg, that in his journey through these mountains he wakened up. many sweet echoes by his music. Having reached the lake, he made a search for pearls along the shore ; and was successful in collecting some of these rare gems, which, being small and of rather inferior quality, were worth, as he said, but a few shillings each."</text>
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                <text>The northern shore of the lake</text>
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                <text>"On the northern shore of the lake, near where the River Derg debouches, may be seen a beautiful white strand. Smoothly-rounded pebbles, small shells and Crustacea, such as may be seen on the sea-shore, are here to be met with..."</text>
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                <text>Daniel O’Connor, Lough Derg and Its Pilgrimages: With Map and Illustrations, p. 75</text>
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                <text>J. Dollard, Dublin</text>
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                <text>Digitised by archive.org, sponsored by Harvard University</text>
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                <text>Pilgrim handbook</text>
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                <text>54.631674,-7.862259</text>
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                <text>Daniel O'Connor, 1843-1919</text>
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              <text>"Taking into account what angry storms sometimes sweep over the lake, lashing its waves into great fury, it is a merciful dispensation of Providence that more accidents have not occurred here ; and this more especially when we consider not only the proximity of the Atlantic, which is but five or six miles west of it, as likewise the high elevation of the lake itself above the level of the sea, but also the frail nature of the barks, which in days gone by used to ply over its waters. Whilst the religious establishment stood on Saints' Island, there is no tradition of any boat accident having occurred, though the barks then in use were currachs, or canoe-shaped boats formed out of a hollowed tree. &#13;
&#13;
Many years ago, it is handed down, two priests went out for a sail on the lake, in a boat of the latter description ; and when but a short distance south of Station Island, where there is a round rock almost hidden under water (since called ‘The Priests' Rock’), the boat capsized, and its occupants were drowned. This, they say, was the first boat accident on Lough Derg. &#13;
&#13;
A second boat was lost here, between Saints' Island and the River Fluchlynn, about forty years. ago. The boatman was Doherty, from Augh-Keen, who, in company with two or three others, were returning home from Kelly's Islands in the month of March, when the boat, which was small and unsafe, capsized a little from land, and all met with a watery grave ; not even Doherty, who was a good swimmer, being able to escape. This sad accident inspired the muse of a local bard, who commemorated the event in a mournful lay, still sung in the locality." (pp. 154-55)</text>
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              <text>"But the most lamentable catastrophe of all happened here in 1795 — a catastrophe which for many years cast a gloom over the place, and the recital of which, even yet, fails not to evoke from the pious pilgrims many a tear and prayer for those who met with such an untimely end. Sunday, the 12th of July, 1795, is a day long to be remembered in connection with Lough Derg. On that day, which set in fresh and breezy, but by no means very stormy, there was the usual bustle and hurry about the ‘cabin,’ or ferryhouse, from an early hour of the morning, amongst pilgrims and the neighbouring inhabitants, who were anxious to hear Mass on the island. A few boats had already taken full cargoes to and fro, when the dread hour of eleven o'clock arrived. Johnston, the ferryman, had already allotted place for ninety-three passengers, all told, most of whom were pilgrims. It appears that some of the passengers took exception to the boat, as being old and unseaworthy ; but their fears were made light of. A very fortunate escape is related of a young man, a pilgrim, who had actually taken his seat in the boat, when he was summoned back by his father, who had dreamt the previous night of some terrible fate about to befall his son, followed him to the lake, and thus saved him from certain death. &#13;
&#13;
At about the hour of eleven o'clock MacTeague, the principal boatman (who is said to have been somewhat under the influence of drink at the time), pushed off from shore, and all went well till they came alongside Prior’s &#13;
Island. At this time it was observed that the boat had sprung a leak, and was fast taking in water. The boatmen, however, took no heed of this, thinking they could reach Station Island without any difficulty. As they had reached about midway between Prior's Island and Station Island, the water was now fast gaining on the boat, which alarmed the passengers, and rendered them quite restive. In this confusion and dismay the boat capsized, and all went down in about ten feet of water. It is said that at this time they were so convenient to Station Island that nine or ten good strokes of the oars would have easily taken them to land. Station Island itself at the time was crowded with spectators, who were so thunderstruck by the accident that they had not the presence of mind to push off to the rescue, though a boat or two were within reach at the island. If this had been done, there is no doubt whatever but that very many of the victims might have been saved. It is consoling to record that one of the priests then on the island waded out some distance into the water, gave conditional absolution to those drowning, and repeated aloud certain prayers for the occasion. All the priests then on the island offered up Mass for the souls of the deceased ; and the Prior (Father. Murray) is said to have declared, in a funeral oration on the occasion, that had the accident happened them when leaving the island, there would 'be &#13;
room for more consolation indeed’. &#13;
&#13;
A few moments after the capsizing of the boat, a large mass of human beings, having grasped each other with the tenacity of death at the bottom of the lake, came to the surface, where they remained struggling for a little, when they sank to rise no more. Out of the ninety-three passengers but three escaped — one of them a man named Mulharty ; the others were a man and his mother-in-law from the County Monaghan. The boatmen were also &#13;
lost, as well as some of the people of the neighbourhood, who were going to hear Mass on the island. &#13;
&#13;
At the time the accident occurred it is said that Johnston, the ferryman, was giving tickets at the ferry-house to a batch of fresh arrivals ; he is reported to have made light of the matter, and to have said that it would by no means prevent the station from proceeding as usual. &#13;
&#13;
All the bodies of those drowned were recovered from their watery grave. Many of them were conveyed home by their sorrowing friends to the family burial-places. &#13;
About twenty or more of them were buried coffinless on the topmost part of Prior's Island, earth having been carried up and heaped over their grave ; and here a dense cluster of firs may be observed waving their sombre heads over their lonely grave. Others of them, again, were buried in Templecarn churchyard. The sight of the dead bodies, as they were conveyed on horseback over the rugged mountain, was most heartrending ; and those who witnessed the sad ordeal (and there are some of them still alive in the vicinity of Lough Derg) could never after refer to the subject without shuddering at the recollection of it. &#13;
&#13;
In connection with this sad accident a remarkable instance — if instances were wanting — is handed down of the affection and veneration of the Irish for their departed relatives. It is said how a young girl, the only child of her widowed mother, happened to be in the ill-fated boat, was drowned, and her body was buried in Templecarn graveyard. The following summer her aged parent came nearly one hundred miles to perform the ‘station’ for &#13;
her, and brought with her a monument, which she had erected over her daughter's grave in Templecarn. This monument, or gravestone, is, I understand, still pointed out to the visitor." (pp. 155-58)</text>
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              <text>“…[T]here were times, some of which are fresh in my memory, when the pilgrims' boat ran considerable risk from the waves, and when the skill and energy of such experienced boatmen as Pat M'Kane, of Seeavoc, were taxed to the utmost in making headway against the triple waves, which are, I believe, peculiar to this lake. There were days also, but very few, when, owing to the storm, the work of ferrying the pilgrims had to be suspended, and when the pilgrims approaching the lake had to find shelter as best, they might in the ‘cabin’ by the shore. I cannot help thinking that, with no very great expenditure, a small steamboat might be provided for the accommodation of this pilgrimage, which would thus render the work of transit not only more expeditious, but also quite secure in every state of the weather. If this were an English or a Continental lake, instead of an Irish one, can we doubt but that its waters would be traversed by yacht and steamer, and that hotels and villas would look down from the surrounding heights on its delightful expanse of water?”&#13;
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              <text>"There are two different opinions to account for the meaning of the denomination, Lough Derg. The first is founded on a legend, which goes on to say that a frightful serpent inhabited this locality, and spread terror and destruction far and wide ; that St. Patrick, being come into the district, put the serpent to death ; that the waters of the lake were dyed of a reddish colour by its blood ; and thus the name of the lake, which was hitherto called fionn, fair or clear, came to be called dearg, which signifies red. This legend, though in substance the same, is differently told by O'Donnellan, in the notes to his edition of the Four Masters; by Dr. O'Donovan, in his Donegal Letters preserved in the Royal Irish Academy ; and by Mr. Wakeman, in a short notice and sketch of Lough Derg, published in the Pictorial World, August 28th, 1875. &#13;
&#13;
This derivation of the name is not admitted by O'Donovan, who pronounces himself quite incredulous as to these legends and local traditions. He says : ‘I am quite satisfied the name of the lake is not Loch-Dearg i.e. Red Lough, but Loch-Deirc which means the Lough of the Cave.’ This opinion is greatly sustained from the way in which it is found written in early notices of it. It is called Loch Gere and Logh Gerg, and the district in which it lay was called Glinn Deirg. This construction, also, is that adopted by the Rev. John Francis Shearman of Howth, in his Loca Fatriciana. &#13;
&#13;
That the waters of Lough Derg bear a reddish tinge to this very day is beyond all doubt, which, if it be not attributable to the legend aforesaid, is easily accounted for by reason of its waters flowing over a boggy or heathy surface. When agitated by a storm the water of the lake becomes very muddy ; but when the lake becomes calm again, the water is clear, and very palatable. The colour of the water, as also its agreeable taste when taken in a warm state, gave rise to its receiving by a very appropriate fiction, the name of ‘wine.’ Formerly this ‘wine’ was the only beverage taken by the pilgrims while they remained 'on station.’ Till recently the large copper, in which this ‘wine’ was boiled, lay rusting in a comer of the island, the modern innovation of boarding-houses and tea-kettles having discarded its occupation. Being such a useful relic to the past, it has been dignified with being marked on the Ordnance Survey Map of the place ; and hence, though there is now no trace of it to be seen, its memory is not destined soon to perish."</text>
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              <text>"In a short time I arrived at the island, and as stepping out of the boat, I planted my foot on the rocks of this scene of human absurdity, I felt ashamed for human nature, and looked on myself as one of the millions of fools that have, century after century, degraded their understandings, by coming hither. The island I found to be of an oval shape ; the buildings on it consisted of a slated house for the priests, two chapels, and a long range of cabins on the rocky surface of the island, which may contain about half an acre, there were also certain round walls about two feet high, enclosing broken stone and wooden crosses; these were called saints’ beds, and around these circles on the sharp and stony rocks, the pilgrims go on their naked knees;–altogether I may briefly sum up my view of this place, and say that it was filthy, dreary, and altogether detestable—it was a positive waste of time to visit it, and I hope I shall never behold it again…" (p. 154)</text>
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              <text>"Having thus given the modern and ancient state of this purgatory, it is time to think of leaving it; and I confess I prepared to turn my back on this strong hold of superstition, without a desire ever again to visit it. I considered that I was withdrawing myself from the exhibition of a stationary satire upon human reason, where the craft of the cunning had made a successful experiment on the extreme credulity of uneducated man. A large flock of well-fledged comfortable geese, headed by a very solemn looking grey gander, were sailing under the shelter side of the island, and hove in sight just as we were about to depart. I think geese are very much belied when made the representatives of stupidity or folly; but in the common acceptation, they might be considered, in the absence of pilgrims, as fit substitutes to frequent this island. A black cormorant with outstretched neck, passed over our heads on his way to exercise his voracious propensities on some of his fishing haunts on the lake : if the Pythagorean system could be entertained in fancy for a moment, it might be imagined that in the metempsychocis, this all devouring bird represented one of the old priors of this purgatory, who had lived on human credulity, and fattened on the terrors and fears of man. As I put my foot into the boat, and pushed off from the island, I observed that the priest’s house which was contiguous to the little pier that served as a place for embarking and disembarking, had a large window that fully commanded the ferry, and from whence could be observed the whole line of march of the pilgrims, as they descended from the ridge of hills that surrounded the lake and approached the ferry; in fact, no man could draw near the ferry, or embark for the island without being accurately noticed by one stationed in this window…"</text>
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                <text>"Having thus given the modern and ancient state of this purgatory, it is time to think of leaving it; and I confess I prepared to turn my back on this strong hold of superstition, without a desire ever again to visit it..."</text>
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                <text>W. Curry, jun. and co.; [etc., etc.], Dublin; First published, in part, in the Christian examiner. cf. Pref. A series of letters signed "C. O.", the first four entitled "Sketches in Donegal", the last five "Sketches in the south of Ireland."</text>
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