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              <text>"Many pilgrims surveying the crowds during the night vigil promise themselves that, on their following night of freedom, they will look down from their cubicle windows at the fascination of the scene, when the people emerge and group themselves in the loggias. The many windows of the lighted Basilica shine like amber panels in the darkness and all around it is the glint and stir of water. It is like the setting of some superb operatic scene. But I never knew a pilgrim to realize this pleasant project. The fresh air that blows across the lake, bringing the Atlantic ozone from Donegal Bay, makes sleep on the second night and impervious and inescapable necessity when added to the fact that the average pilgrim has put in about forty hours without sleep."</text>
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&#13;
THE SANCTUARY OF STATION ISLAND, LOUGH DERG&#13;
&#13;
OR&#13;
&#13;
AN EXCURSION INTO THE FIFTH CENTURY&#13;
&#13;
Station Island, In Lough Derg, County Donegal, the goal of Ireland’s national pilgrimage, is a mere craggy knoll less than an acre in extent, set in a grey quiet lake, enfolded by a chain of low rolling mountains, barren, grey too, quiet as the lake they shield.&#13;
&#13;
There abide here three qualities of life, so rare as almost to have vanished from our world: antiquity, simplicity and quietude – characters conditioning all permanence and sweetness. They allure and assuage the mind. They lend this pilgrimage its special prestige.&#13;
&#13;
Fully as ancient as our Irish Catholic Life, the Lough Derg devotion is a door opening from the twentieth century into the fifth: at once a voyage of discovery and an avenue of escape. On this Island the past endures; fifteen hundred years are as though they had never been. Every pilgrim disembarking here becomes a sort of Rip Van Winkle and returns enriched with experimental knowledge of Celtic Christianity."</text>
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              <text>"In a short time I arrived at the island, and as stepping out of the boat, I planted my foot on the rocks of this scene of human absurdity, I felt ashamed for human nature, and looked on myself as one of the millions of fools that have, century after century, degraded their understandings, by coming hither. The island I found to be of an oval shape ; the buildings on it consisted of a slated house for the priests, two chapels, and a long range of cabins on the rocky surface of the island, which may contain about half an acre, there were also certain round walls about two feet high, enclosing broken stone and wooden crosses; these were called saints’ beds, and around these circles on the sharp and stony rocks, the pilgrims go on their naked knees;–altogether I may briefly sum up my view of this place, and say that it was filthy, dreary, and altogether detestable—it was a positive waste of time to visit it, and I hope I shall never behold it again…" (p. 154)</text>
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The island called St. Patrick's Purgatory is altogether rocky, and rather level : without the compass of the island, in the water towards the north east, about two yards from the shore stand certain rocks, the least of which and next the shore, is the one St. Patrick knelt on for the third part of the night in prayer, as he did another third in his cell, which is called his bed, and another third in the cave or Purgatory; in this stone there is a cleft or print, said to be made by St. Patrick's knees; the other stone is much greater and further off in the lake, and covered with water, called Lachavanny: this is esteemed of singular virtue; standing thereon healeth pilgrims’ feet, bleeding as they are with the cuts and bruises, got in going barefoot round the blessed beds. The entrance into the island is narrow and rocky; these rocks they report to be the guts of a great serpent metamorphosed into stones…"</text>
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              <text>"Having thus given the modern and ancient state of this purgatory, it is time to think of leaving it; and I confess I prepared to turn my back on this strong hold of superstition, without a desire ever again to visit it. I considered that I was withdrawing myself from the exhibition of a stationary satire upon human reason, where the craft of the cunning had made a successful experiment on the extreme credulity of uneducated man. A large flock of well-fledged comfortable geese, headed by a very solemn looking grey gander, were sailing under the shelter side of the island, and hove in sight just as we were about to depart. I think geese are very much belied when made the representatives of stupidity or folly; but in the common acceptation, they might be considered, in the absence of pilgrims, as fit substitutes to frequent this island. A black cormorant with outstretched neck, passed over our heads on his way to exercise his voracious propensities on some of his fishing haunts on the lake : if the Pythagorean system could be entertained in fancy for a moment, it might be imagined that in the metempsychocis, this all devouring bird represented one of the old priors of this purgatory, who had lived on human credulity, and fattened on the terrors and fears of man. As I put my foot into the boat, and pushed off from the island, I observed that the priest’s house which was contiguous to the little pier that served as a place for embarking and disembarking, had a large window that fully commanded the ferry, and from whence could be observed the whole line of march of the pilgrims, as they descended from the ridge of hills that surrounded the lake and approached the ferry; in fact, no man could draw near the ferry, or embark for the island without being accurately noticed by one stationed in this window…"</text>
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