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'Mid these islands of southern sea lay the grim little rock of the Purgatory, without fruit or leaf. Two grey stoned chapels, surrounded by a few poor thatched cottages, marked the spot of the famous prison-house. &#13;
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A mile down the lough lay Saint's Island, rising out of the water like the ridge of a sunken mill-stone. &#13;
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The purple girdle of many mountains enclosed lough and islands, and they have changed least. Their rough surface has not given an inch to a thousand years of storm. Then, as ever, the thick heath grew from their crown to the water's edge. Beautiful unburnt heather purple and red and white. &#13;
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In such surroundings the happy canons could follow out a rule of toil and contemplation to their heart's content. There was endless work to be done in the garden. There were vegetables as well as flowers to be sown and tended. There were merry brown fish to be caught in the lake for days of fast and abstinence. There was the stone flag-way from the island to the little harbour opposite to be built and repaired, which lies under the water to this day. Rough weather and winter found them behind their walls the garden of the soul had also to be tilled."</text>
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              <text>“When [Owen] had sufficiently recovered his strength he vowed to remain as a religious on Saint's Island for the rest of his life. So on an evening they brought him to the stone causeway leading over the water. As he passed this narrow bridge a sudden remembrance fell upon him of all he had suffered in his vision and of the troubled waters he had seen at his feet. For a moment horror had bowed him down, and he would have fallen if the Prior had not held him from behind. But once his feet had touched Saint's Island the bright joy of his dream re-echoed in his heart. Once more he seemed to move across the scented meadows into the presence of the King, who abideth in His tabernacle for ever surrounded by the witness of the dead and the praise of the living.”</text>
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              <text>"The road from the village of Petigo leading towards Lough Derg, runs along a river tumbling over rocks ; and then after proceeding for a time over a boggy valley, you ascend into a dreary and mountainous tract, extremely ugly in itself, but from which you have a fine view indeed of the greatest part of the lower lake of Lough Erne, with its many elevated islands, and all its hilly shores, green, wooded, and cultivated, with the interspersed houses of its gentry, and the comfortable cottages of its yeomanry — the finest yeomanry in Ireland : men living in comparative comfort, and having in their figures and bearing that elevation of character which a sense of loyalty and independence confers. I had at length, after travelling about three miles, arrived where the road was discontinued, and by the direction of my guide, ascended a mountain-path that brought me through a wretched village, and led to the top of a hill. Here my boy left me, and went to look for the man who was to ferry us to Purgatory, and on the ridge where I stood I had leisure to look around. To the south-west lay Lough Erne, with all its isles and cultivated shores ; to the north-west, Lough Derg, and truly never did I mark such a contrast. Lough Derg under my feet — the lake, the shores, the mountains, the accompaniments of all sorts presented the very landscape of desolation; its waters expanding in their highland solitude, amidst a wide waste of moors, without one green spot to refresh the eye, without a house or tree — all mournful in the brown hue of its far-stretching bogs, and the grey uniformity of its rocks ; the surrounding mountains even partook of the sombre character of the place ; their forms without grandeur, their ranges continuous and without elevation. The lake itself was certainly as fine as rocky shores and numerous islands could make it : but it was encompassed with such dreariness ; it was deformed so much by its purgatorial island ; the associations connected with it were of such a degrading character, that really the whole prospect before me struck my mind with a sense of painfulness, and I said to myself, 'I am already in purgatory.' A person who had never seen the picture that was now under my eye, who had read of a place consecrated by the devotion of ages, towards which the tide of human superstition had flowed for twelve centuries, might imagine that St. Patrick's Purgatory, secluded in its sacred island, would have all the venerable and gothic accompaniments of olden time : and its ivied towers and belfried steeples, its carved windows, and cloistered arches, its long dark aisles and fretted vaults, would have risen out of the water, rivalling Iona or Lindisfarn ; but nothing of the sort was to be seen. The island, about half a mile from the shore, presented nothing but a collection of hideous slated houses and cabins, which give you an idea that they were rather erected for the purposes of toll-houses or police stations than any thing else."</text>
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                <text>A dismal scene of the view to the lake on the walk from Pettigo, originally included in Caesar Otway's 'Sketches in Ireland'</text>
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                <text>Carleton, William, 'The Lough Derg Pilgrim', in Traits and Stories of the Irish Peasantry, pp. 238-39</text>
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              <text>“Lough Derg is a lonely sheet of water, extending from north to south, about six miles in length. Its greatest width from Portcreevy to the River Derg is fully four miles. It is thirteen miles in circuit, and covers an area of 2,140 statute acres. It is surrounded by a chain of mountains, some of which rise to a considerable elevation above the level of the lake. The Rev. Caesar Otway, in his Sketches in Donegal and other writers after him, from whom we should expect a more impartial description, if not so graphic, say that there is no grandeur in the scenery of Lough Derg, no variety in the outline, the mountains without elevation, neither tree nor green spot to relieve this sombre scenery. A more unfair or distorted picture the greatest enemy of the place could hardly give. Here, indeed, you have all the charms of Highland scenery, and much in addition. The extensive sheet of water, with rocky shores and numerous islands, is all that can be admired. In the background the mountains are of considerable and varying elevation. &#13;
&#13;
And though heath is here the prevailing robe of nature, yet occasional patches of trees and bushes, with many a sunny slope and green sward and wooded island, relieve the scenery of its stem and wild aspect. But above and beyond all, the traditions and associations of the place impart to it an attraction and charm which no beauty of scenery could supply. &#13;
&#13;
The lake is about 450 feet above the level of the sea ; while the highest surrounding mountains are Crockinnagoe, to the south-east of the lake, 1,194 feet ; Ardmore and Ougtadreen towards the north, 1,086 and 1,071 feet high respectively ; the mountains to the south and west not reaching an elevation of 1,000 feet. &#13;
&#13;
The chain of hills towards the south of the lake forms the watershed between northern and southern Ulster, The streams flowing south of this chain of hills meet the Termon river at Pettigoe, thence flowing into Lough &#13;
Erne ; while the streams flowing northward empty into Lough Derg, and thence into the sea at Lough Foyle. &#13;
&#13;
‘The basin of the lake is a huge quarry of the metamorphic rock, known as mike slate, or schist, upheaved in ages azoic by some fiery agent, so that the stratifaction is now almost perpendicular to the surface. It crops up all round the shore, and through the lake into numerous rocky islets and hidden reefs, whose projecting points are sharp as iron spikes, and render the navigation of the lake a matter of great caution.’* &#13;
&#13;
* From an article in the Irish Monthly, January Number, 1878.” </text>
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              <text>“Lough Derg consists of two large sheets of water, which may be designated the upper and lower lakes. The upper lake is connected with the lower by means of three channels formed by Saints' Island and an islet lying north-east of it, called by that name of bad omen, ‘The Wildgoose Lodge.’ The principal streams flowing into the lake are called the rivers Fluchlynn and Barderg, which fall into Lough Derg at its north-western extremity. The outlet is called the River Derg, which issues from the lake at the north-eastern shore, and pursues its winding way till it mingles with the ocean at Lough Foyle. &#13;
&#13;
Lough Derg is bespangled with numerous and pretty islands, some crowned with stunted trees, some bared to the mountain breezes. The principal of these islands are Inishgoosk, alias Bilberry Island; Saints' Island, Station Island, Prior's Island, Allingham's Island, Ash Islands, Boat Islands, near the quay; Stormy Islands, Kelly's Isles, Goat Islands, near the River Fluchlynn; Derg More Island. Derg Beg Island, Trough Island and Bull's Island. Besides these, there are a good many other islets with no particular designation; and which, with few exceptions, are mere groups of barren rocks, where cranes, cormorants and sea-gulls nestle, imparting by their wild and plaintive screams a lonely and romantic charm to this island &#13;
hermitage. In the above enumeration Saints' Island seems to have been sometimes called St. Fintan's Island, and very often St. Dabheoc's Island. Inishgoosk would appear to be the most ancient name at present attached to any of these islands ; and it may be taken to mean the island of the cove, or creek, on account of its formation at its western extremity.”</text>
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              <text>"To the west of St. Brigid's Chair, and about two furlongs from the shore of the lake, but somewhat further from the chair, is situated on the very summit of a mountain a carn-shaped eminence, on the summit of which is St. Dabheoc's Seat, which has been already described in this work. Writing on Templecarn churchyard we have already seen that the ancient roadway to Lough Derg passed by this old churchyard. And so it did. This ancient road, called by O'Donovan a via strata is given on the Ordnance Survey Map of the place. At the present day it is very difficult to trace the course of this road, owing to the fact that it has been disused for at least between two or three hundred years ; during this time heath and bog having accumulated over it where it led through the mountains, and, where it wound its course along the western shore of the lake, the waves having more effectively destroyed almost every trace of it. Traces of this roadway may yet be descried over the summit of Portneillinwore hill (which is convenient to Saints' Island), also in a few places along the shore of the lake, particularly at Portcreevy bay, where it quitted the lake and led on through a mountain valley towards Templecarn and Pettigoe. I have been told that at certain parts of this roadway, where the overlying bog has been cutaway, large stepping-stones, arranged in regular order, have been brought to light, which leaves us to conjecture that these were hollow parts of the roads that may have been partly flooded. &#13;
&#13;
I have also learned that where this roadway led through the tortuous defiles of the mountains between Pettigoe and Portcreevy, the pedestal of an ancient way-side cross may yet be seen ; and that the ground immediately surrounding this pedestal is closely paved with stones which are worn smooth; the supposition being that the pilgrims here knelt and offered up a votive prayer either on approaching or quitting the island." (pp. 58-9)</text>
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              <text>"…The story is told that in ancient times Lough Derg abounded in salmon and salmon-trout, just the same as its next neighbour, Lough Erne. The fishful lake gave an unfailing supply to the frugal table of the good monks, and little were the exertions needed in having always at hand a plentiful supply of this delicious and highly-prized fish. On a certain occasion the monks were expecting St. Patrick on his visitation, and had been out fishing all day, in order to have some salmon for the saint's repast However, they failed in catching any, and were sorely perplexed to find their hospitality thus put to so cruel a test ; which, when the saint had heard, he foretold that salmon would no more inhabit the waters of Lough Derg. And, as if to corroborate the truth of the foregoing incident, the legend goes on to say that about-sixty years ago a gentleman of the sceptical school, having heard the story as already narrated, put himself to great extremes in order to falsify the saint's prediction. He had salmon conveyed from a distance, carefully marked and deposited in the lake ; when lo! the very next morning the salmon were found in a net, which was placed in the River Derg to prevent their escape. &#13;
&#13;
Little over forty years ago Dr. O'Donovan related the self-same legend ; and, if it be only to show how much these legends are altered and exaggerated, even in a short period of time, I shall give his version of it. He says: ‘No salmon come into the lake, though they come up to the very throat of the river. Two fishermen (who had a weir near the source of the Derg) cast two live salmon into the lake not many years ago, to see if they'd remain there ; and in order to know them they cut off a part of their fins and tails, but, on their return, they found the same salmon caught in their cochall, or net. This is attributed to the curse of St. Patrick.’ &#13;
&#13;
As a matter of fact, salmon cannot be found in Lough Derg. The lake, however, abounds in trout, and affords excellent fishing. In this respect perhaps no other lake in Ireland can compete with it During the summer and autumn a day seldom passes without witnessing a number of arrivals of those bent on this fine Waltonian sport ; and the followers of the angle are generally rewarded with a numerous ‘take,’ Trout weighing six or ^ight pounds are occasionally hauled in ; but the class most commonly caught do not exceed a pound in weight When a gentle ‘fresh’ is blowing, no more contemplative or enticing pastime could be desired than playing a well-trimmed ‘cast’ off the shoals and reefs, which are so numerous throughout the lake. And we can well imagine how the monks of Lough Derg in the olden time, albeit their prayerful and penitential lives, enjoyed ‘to their hearts' content’ this delightful recreation, as they sailed over its waters in their skin-covered currachs. &#13;
&#13;
Eels, also, are to be found in Lough Derg. Near the mouth of the River Derg remains of an eel-weir may be noticed. &#13;
&#13;
Of late years pike has found its way into the lake, some large fish of this class having been caught weighing over thirty pounds. These ‘fresh-water sharks’ up to this have made sad havoc on the trout of the lake, but it is satisfactory to find that large numbers of them, during the spawning season each year, are netted in the streams flowing into the lake, and in this way, it is hoped, they will be diminished. Through the surrounding mountains, foxes have been a similar source of destruction to hares and heathfowl ; their number, however, is very much reduced, as each year beyond a score of them are caught in traps."</text>
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            <name>Title</name>
            <description>A name given to the resource</description>
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                <text>Interrogating the curse of St. Patrick</text>
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            <name>Subject</name>
            <description>The topic of the resource</description>
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                <text>Lough Derg--Folklore--St. Patrick--Interrogation</text>
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                <text>"…The story is told that in ancient times Lough Derg abounded in salmon and salmon-trout, just the same as its next neighbour, Lough Erne..."</text>
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            <name>Source</name>
            <description>A related resource from which the described resource is derived</description>
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                <text>Daniel O’Connor, Lough Derg and Its Pilgrimages: With Map and Illustrations, pp 72-4</text>
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            <name>Publisher</name>
            <description>An entity responsible for making the resource available</description>
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                <text>J. Dollard, Dublin</text>
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            <name>Date</name>
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                <text>1879</text>
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            <name>Contributor</name>
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                <text>Digitised by archive.org, sponsored by Harvard University</text>
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                <text>Pilgrim handbook</text>
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            <description>The spatial or temporal topic of the resource, the spatial applicability of the resource, or the jurisdiction under which the resource is relevant</description>
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                <text>54.616218, -7.876212</text>
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            <name>Creator</name>
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                <text>Daniel O'Connor, 1843-1919</text>
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            <name>Rights</name>
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                <text>Public domain</text>
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                <text>http://archive.org/details/loughdergandits00ocogoog</text>
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        <name>Arctic Char (Salvelinus alpinus)</name>
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        <name>Atlantic Salmon (Salmo salar)</name>
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        <name>eels</name>
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        <name>John O'Donovan</name>
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        <name>mountains</name>
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        <name>Salmon</name>
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        <name>trout</name>
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        <name>wildlife</name>
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